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October 13, 2008

Capsule Wardrobing

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Capsule_wardrobe1_2 The Less Is More Approach

We have been working our way through our household basics over the last few weeks, and in particular, we have focused on the laundry and wardrobe issues in our home.

We all have way more than we need. Remember the 80/20 rule? We only wear 20% of our wardrobes, 80% of the time. Simplifying our wardrobe, and reducing the volume of unworn and outgrown items, has been an essential part of “keeping it all together”. It reduces clutter, means less wasted money, and gives us ease in getting ourselves out the door.

In light of the recent events regarding the world’s financial market events, we want to be even wiser stewards and to make the best investment bang for our buck over the long term; so when shopping and investing in a new wardrobe, think of the “cost per wear formula”. If you bought a jacket for a $100 and wore it only 10 times, it would cost you $10 each time you wore it. If you decided instead to by the more expensive $250 dollar jacket on sale for $200, and wore it twice a week for the next two years, you would have worn it at least 200 times, and it would work out to $1.00 per wear.

Which would be the better investment for both your wardrobe and your finances? It is rather obvious. You want good investment over the long haul, so don’t just buy cheap and on a whim.

This week we will look at the benefits of a “capsule wardrobe” approach. Well-fitting, classic, and neutral pieces become the foundation for a wardrobe that meets almost all your particular fashion needs at any moment. Everything works together, and can be creatively mixed and matched, in order to create even more clever combinations, therefore multiplying your actual wearable options.

It doesn’t mean immediately tossing the old wardrobe out the door altogether, but we can eliminate the unworn, unloved, uncomfortable, and unusable things, and then reassess what basic things we need , so that we end up with a practical, usable, all-purpose wardrobe. It will help you to focus on what works for you, and meets your needs. I would recommend going through each person in your household, looking at it with a fresh eye. Assess the needs for their particular stage of life. Babies, toddlers, school-age children, students, working students, full time homemaking, career, and retirement stages, mean different things.

For the sake of time, we will look at an example of a woman’s wardrobe capsule. This one will work for career or general all-purpose outings, on the dressier side of things. When starting out, remember your wardrobe will be transitional from your old one to the new one, especially if things are tight moneywise! You may have a few gaps at first, so use accessories that you may already have to help get you through it!

CAPSULE WARDROBING

While the traditional capsule was more attuned to a formal and more classic style, it can now be updated and reinterpreted in a form that works individually. Either which way, it should remain timeless. Timeless simply means it doesn’t change too often, or get labelled as “trendy”, and that it is more tailored. While the fashion seasons on the runway will tend to ebb and flow, you will find these well-invested pieces are always in. The trendier pieces that can update your wardrobe can be your tops and accessories, as they are a little bit more disposable and are the less expensive options to experiment and play with.

After you start wearing your capsule basic pieces a few times, you may wonder if everyone is tired of seeing you in the same things over and over. Remember to mix and match, and rotate the items. Incorporate new basic pieces over time, and even add third pieces if needed, but no more.  How many suits can a girl wear at one time? If you are changing your tops and switching scarves and jewellery, you can make a lot of looks with just a few pieces. You will see as you go along.

Keep the basic pieces plain, they aren’t recognized as easily a memorable patterns. Keep the pattern in blouses and/or scarves if you need it. (You won’t find patterns in my wardrobe, except occasionally in a scarf. My features are actually quite small, and end up appearing overwhelmed when I wear prints of any kind.)

Classic fabric choices are the better investment for long term wearability and durability. Cottons, wool, houndstooth, silk, cashmere are the favourites. Denim and twill are also modern day staples for a more casual wardrobe. Your clothing personality will also affect some of the choices, so keep that in mind as well.

Chances are you will already have some basic pieces in your wardrobe. You probably love the style, the colour, and find wear them often because they best suit your needs. Again, it is that 80/20 rule. The key is to discover that the 20 percent is really a capsule form of your very own wardrobe! It just may need to be fine-tuned to make it more effective for you. So if you want to assess, there are a couple of things to consider.

ASSESS YOUR LIFESTYLE

What season of your life are you in? Are you a stay-at-home mom? Professional or career woman? Full or part-time student? What are you requiring most of the time for day-to-day wear? Does your life dictate the necessity of a couple smaller wardrobe capsules?

If you travel on a regular basis, perhaps you may want to consider a very simple separate capsule for that purpose. For this example we will choose one of warm-destination basics, such as: a little black dress, a wrap skirt, (wear as a skirt or as a cover-up for walking through the hotel), over blouse (can also be worn as a jacket or cover-up), a bathing suit, capris, shorts, khakis, a lightweight classic button down cardigan (buttoned as a sweater with or without a blouse under it), a couple of t-shirts, a floppy hat, sandals, walking or hiking shoes, sunglasses, leather tote, umbrella and rain slicker.

BODY SHAPE

Know your body type. There are many good books on the market, and in your local library that can educate you on what style lines and flattering features look best on your particular body shape and size. Knowing this can help to accentuate your positive features, and disguise the not so flattering areas that you don’t want to draw attention to.

LEARN YOUR MOST FLATTERING COLOURS

Seasonal colour assessment is also a plus. It is a good investment and can save you a lot of colour mistakes in your wardrobe. While it was a very popular trend a few years back, it is now experiencing a resurgence. (If you are unable to afford having your colours done, there are some well known and well worn copies of books, such as Colour Me Beautiful still hanging around in most local libraries.)

FIND YOUR OWN PARTICULAR STYLE

Are you more classic, funky, casual, dramatic, romantic, or ethnic in your style flair? How would your family and friends describe you? The benefit of focusing on your most dominant fashion personality is that your wardrobe will coordinate with much more ease, simplify your range of choices, and allow you to get the most out of your fashion investments. It can help you to avoid those impulse purchases and styles that you may never wear again because they simply aren’t really you. If they don’t look or feel like “you”, leave them on the rack. Well dressed women wear only what looks good on them.

There are all sorts of names and classifications, but the basic tried-and-true names remain. They are dramatic, classic, creative, natural and romantic. Ethnic is also another one you could add to the list, but it tends to be very culturally focused, and is too broad to go into here. Namely they each can sum up your clothing, hairstyle, makeup and accessory styles. Try not to make yourself into another style that is not naturally your own. It doesn’t work, and will be a waste of your time. Plus, you will spend all your time squirming because you are not comfortable in the skin that is not yours! Be who God created you to be!

DRAMATIC

A dramatic style is one of just that – just think of “stage and screen”. Bold, she is not to be missed. She can make an entrance and an exit! She will be the most direct, assertive woman in the room, and she speaks her mind. Her features are often dramatic as well, and her hair is usually very dark or a striking shade of grey. Like most winters, her skin often has an olive undertone and she carries herself with strong posture. Wide shoulders and straight shoulders are quite common in her body structure. She will be strong in her design choices, with very strong, sharp, straight lines in her tailoring, with longer jackets and shorter skirts, or edgy in very dramatic flow-y fabrics. Nothing looks romantic and frilly, or overly feminine. Colour choices will be strong and attention grabbing. Leopard prints, snakeskin, big boas, shoulder scarves, and strong fabric choices could also be seen.

CLASSIC

A classic gal speaks classic lines and features. Quality over quantity, understated and elegant , sums it all up. Tailored items are the wardrobe staples. Trendy will never do! The length of her skirt usually hovers around the knee, be it above or below, but it is always an acceptable length, no matter what the current style trend is. Immaculate and well groomed, she holds herself tall and elegant. She is usually in solids, and rarely uses patterns, but she is never boring.  Ruffles and frills will never be seen on this girl, if she can help it! If she does use pattern, you will find it in her scarves or the occasional blouse or top. Her hair will be as immaculately groomed and very controlled. Classic bobs, sleek buns, geometric ally straight lines, or very controlled curves are her speed.

NATURAL

Natural is the girl next door - low key, friendly, relaxed and casual. Often sporting a classic bob, a pony tail or a simple bun, she often wears that wind-blown look because she is ever on the move! She prefers the easy-going form of dressing over getting dressed-up anyday! Sportswear is her game. Casual to chic, she wears it all. She can look feminine, yet practical, for life’s daily activities. Ruffles, silk, shiny fabrics and accessories, and trendy items of any kind are definitely not her thing either! Tailored suits, twills and khakis in natural fabrics, and solids are the best investments, and the most flattering options for her to base her wardrobe on.

ROMANTIC

Romantic is self-explanatory. We know that look – feminine, softly ruffled and frilly, with a gentle sheen, and romantic soft pastel and wispy prints - with soft curved lines are her trademark, (even in her figure description). Satin, velvet, and anything along the lines of “Victorian” are probably in her personal style choices. Her goal is to always flatter herself, her complexion, and to draw your eye to her face. Classic curls and natural ringlets are in her hair trends, and big braids and ribbons can be found keeping it in a natural, controlled low-maintenance mode.

THE CREATIVE TYPE

The creative woman is a woman all her own. She has her own style, and no one can refute it! She is unique, and it sums her up beautifully. She chooses her own accessories, and probably appears to be “artsy” to most. She throws on her clothes in unique ways and combinations, and makes it all her own! She can even appear bohemian and gypsy-like at times! Or, she can be wild, free, and untamed – with her hair described that very same way!

ETHNIC/CULTURAL

Clothing is usually culturally focused, diverse, disciplined, and purposed, when the choices are made. The laws of religious faiths, belief systems and social standing can also dictate the number of choices possible. There can be both ceremonial and daily clothing capsules that are predetermined for you.

THE ABSOLUTE MOST BASIC CAPSULE

Everything needs to start with a good foundation, and a wardrobe is no exception. That is why they call undergarments “foundation” garments. They need to be sensible choices that are comfortable and healthy, (opting for natural fabrics over synthetics as much as possible), and whatever else is necessary to reflect decency, elegance, and to preserve a good Christian witness. (Save the sexy, short, and low cut stuff for when you are alone with your husband.)

· Two or three well-fitting bras, in neutral for the most versatility, (or a white), and a black one for under dark garments.

· Two changes of pyjamas

· Add one neutral and one black camisole for under your blouses and sweaters that may require them; slips in white, beige and black as required; and panties in neutral, white and black - enough for a week.

· Be sure to think about pantyhose and knee-hi’s that will enhance your legs and your wardrobe. (Tip: When matching them to your trousers - make them the same colour as your pant and shoe, to make yourself look taller and thinner. Avoid broken lines where colour stops and starts... for example: black pant, black or skirt, black leg covering, and black shoes.) Socks of your choice.

· Classic neutral colours such as black, navy and grey, along with white and cream are the staple, stable, forever, best investments. While some women who land in the “seasonal” categories of “spring and fall” would opt for beige and brown as their core colours, do bare in mind they can be quite trendy at times, and can be dating when it comes to classic styles. It would not be incorrect to use them - just be careful to make sure the styles are chosen wisely, so they don’t age quickly!

Tip: Perhaps you seldom wear a skirt or dress anywhere. Perhaps you only wear skirts and seldom wear pants. There may be no point in adding a couple sets of them, but if there is a possibility that you may want to add the matching piece that goes with the basic suit later on , consider purchasing it at the same time so that the pieces are all the same.

Tip: Perhaps you work as a teacher. Your basic capsule may constitute the purchase of two pairs of trousers, two skirts, two blouses, a sweater, (all in plain, no prints), a turtleneck, and a good blazer in a wool-tweed texture. Make sure it suits your environment. Sturdy cotton blouses would suit better than a satin blouse that risks wearing waterpaint or glue from the children’s cut-and-paste activities!

AT THE MINUMUM

· A  good basic, classic white shirt in your best shade of `white` that will go with all your neutral colours

· 2 more blouses in your absolute best colours next to your face, for example , red , or bright blue

· A basic black skirt, (on the straight side and around knee length), jacket,  and pants will take you to any function, funeral, or party

· No good wardrobe is usually found without the infamous little black dress, either

· Depending on where you live, a raincoat in the traditional, belted trench style, a long winter coat and a hip length pant coat are the standard timeless requirements

· A good leather belt in your chosen leather colour, black, gray, and navy are the best investments of course...if your wardrobe is based on the fall/spring colour scheme, you may do the brown matching leather bag in your colour – one small and formal, and one everyday, all purpose style

· Classic straight leg denims in black and navy

· A comfortable, fitted cardigan-style sweater

· A  beautiful pair of pant shoes with a leg lengthening, sturdy heel and a classic pump for dresses and skirts, long boots

· A timeless, unfussy pair of sunglasses

· An umbrella

WHY EXPANDING OVER TIME WORKS

· You can add a second pair of pants , skirt and jacket in another basic and classic colour and you have doubled your choices , couple more blouses and you are all set

· Now you might add a third pair of pants or skirt, or two pairs of pants, and voila! - the combinations are endless - you can mix and match and change the look just by changing your jewellery, scarves and accessories

· No more additions are necessary, as this is more than enough, and you are trying to simplify and reduce your excess...

THIS WEEK’S CHALLENGE

Take a look at each member’s clothing in your household. Write down the gaps, and needs, for their wardrobes. Begin shopping with purpose, and a plan for future investment.

Gradual integration may be possible and financially doable for some. For others, a basic capsule may be a necessary, immediate investment due to a new job opportunity or life change. Perhaps for another it simply means adding a pant suit to an already workable closet of clothing.

Your husband may need a suit wardrobe of 2 or 3 colours such as grey, black, and navy, with dress shirts and ties that will work interchangeably for work. Your son may only require 2 pairs of twill pants, 2 shirts, 3 pairs of jeans and 5 t-shirts, a denim jacket, leather belt and dress shoes, runners, and a sport coat to get him though his semesters and part-time job. Your toddler’s needs again, will be different. So look at each member individually, and have 5 days worth of clothing for your younger children maximum. They will outgrow it faster than you can say “growing like a weed” , and your money will be wasted!

Have fun with your challenge, and we will see you here again next week!

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